A calm sea is a sea with almost no waves or small waves. On days with strong winds, especially storms, is the sea with big waves. Thus, we immediately see that the main factors causing waves in the seas and oceans are wind and storms. Waves are caused by moving forces acting on the water’s surface. Observing the waves, we see the layers of waves, rows, and layers of heaving layers chasing each other as if moving in the same direction. The waves are stationary. Drop a floating object, and we see that the floating object moves; we think the waves cause it to move. But, the object was displaced by the action of the wind, not the wave.
What is the movement of the waves? Undulating waves, buds, means waves “stomp” in place. Water molecules rise and fall in place. The force that creates waves moves from offshore to shore, but the water molecules are not moving in this direction. For example, we hold one end of a rope; we apply force to make that rope move; the bobbing and bobbing movement of the rope does not move the molecules that make up the rope.
At the bottom of the water, waves touch the ground over a barely noticeable distance. The movement of the foot of the wave is slowed down by rubbing against the bottom. Meanwhile, the wave continues to be affected by force in its direction and speed. Thus, the wave is broken, falling. Due to this phenomenon, we see the wave “silver head.” the force that creates the waves is dissipated when it hits the shore. Just stand where the waves hit you immediately feel the force that creates the waves hitting you: the waves push you.
In ocean waves, water molecules move in a circular orbit. These molecules are pulled up and pushed by the force of the wind, but simultaneously. They are pulled down by the gravity of the earth and pushed in the opposite direction of the wind direction to back to the old flat. The up and down movements of the water molecules create waves. If strong winds mean great repulsion, many water molecules will be pushed up, thus large waves. The distance of the waves is the wavelength. The depression between the two waves is called the “trough.” Therefore, large waves also mean wide and deep gutters.